From sushi to pizza, here are 6 soft-shell crab dishes to try in Baltimore right now

Soft-shell crab season in Maryland is short, which is exactly why people get so excited about it. If you see one on a menu, you usually do not have weeks to think it over.

I was inspired to find some creative versions of the dish when I took Gov. Wes Moore to his very first Ekiben experience after his team reached out to collaborate with @eatmorebemore, my personal Instagram account.

We tried the classics, including the Neighborhood Bird, Tofu Brah and tempura broccoli, but the real reason for the trip was to introduce him to the local Maryland soft-shell crab bun at Ekiben’s South Baltimore location. After one bite, he described it as “such an amazing explosion of flavor,” which felt like a strong endorsement for both Ekiben and my soft-shell crab agenda.

Before the season slips away, try these soft-shell creations — some classic, some more creative and one that involves pizza.

Nanami Cafe

• 907 S. Ann St.

Fried soft-shell crab is common at sushi restaurants, but Nanami Cafe’s Garlick roll goes beyond the standard crunchy roll. Soft-shell crab tempura, avocado and cucumber is topped with seared salmon and yellowtail, and finished with masago, garlic chips, scallion, ponzu sauce and black garlic sauce. The garlic chips bring crunch, the ponzu cuts through the richness and the black garlic sauce gives the roll a deeper, sweeter finish. Nanami also has a covered patio on the water in Fells Point, making it a strong option for sushi with a harbor view and, depending on the timing, a particularly bustling pirate ship passing by. While I was there, I also tried a tuna tasting with bigeye tuna, bluefin tuna, fatty tuna, toro and otoro, a range you do not see everywhere in Baltimore.

Little Donna’s

• 1812 Bank St.

Little Donna’s is already one of Baltimore’s most-coveted reservations, and the room is part of the reason. The restaurant kept much of the old Henninger’s Tavern charm, including the white tablecloths, classic wooden bar and neighborhood feel that makes the space feel lived-in rather than overly polished. During this time of year, the move is the soft-shell crab tavern pie, currently served Fresno-style with housemade stracciatella, sliced garlic, Fresno chile, hot honey and wild arugula. As the restaurant moves into summer, the soft shells will shift onto the Summertime pie with fresh tomatoes. (I recommend both with a side of creamy ranch for dipping.) Owner and chef Robbie Tutlewski said the crab for both tavern pies is “lightly pan-fried” before it goes on top of the pizza, then the whole thing is cut with the soft-shell in place so crab juices work their way into each slice.

Big Softy

• Pop-up

Big Softy serves a classic Maryland soft-shell crab sandwich without overcomplicating it. The pop-up’s version comes with lettuce, tomato, Old Bay mayonnaise and lemon juice on white bread, with Utz potato chips on the side. The Old Bay mayo adds seasoning without burying the flavor of the crustacean, and the lemon juice gives the sandwich enough brightness to balance the fried protein. Owner Craig Falk is often at the helm, bringing a friendly, funny energy that makes each pop-up feel personal. The soft-shell sandwich is the main reason to go, but Bmore Big Softy also makes Detroit-style pizza, so follow his Instagram account for locations and timing.

Rye Street Tavern

• 225 E. Cromwell St.

Rye Street Tavern’s soft-shell crab sandwich is a more polished version of the classic seafood lunch. The crab comes fried and topped with lettuce and tomato on a challah bun, with coleslaw, french fries and cocktail mayo on the side. This was one of the crispier soft-shells I tried, with more breading than some of the others, making it a good pick if you want a bigger crunch and a sturdier sandwich. The challah bun gives it a softer, slightly richer base than the usual white bread version. Rye Street’s patio is another reason to go to this restaurant, especially on warmer days when the waterfront views at Baltimore Peninsula make it easy to turn lunch into a long afternoon.

Midlina

• 2206 Boston St.

Midlina takes soft-shell crab in a lighter, more composed direction. The crab is tempura-fried and served with English pea purée, corn succotash, roasted red pepper oil, orange-infused oil and greens. The sweet corn and pea purée lean into spring and early summer, while the roasted red pepper and orange oils add color, acidity and brightness. While it’s one of the prettiest soft-shell plates I came across, the presentation is not doing all the work. Midlina consistently has one of my favorite menus in town because the dishes feel fresh and creative while drawing on diverse influences, all without becoming unfocused. The room also has a relaxed energy, with music that gives the restaurant a moody, Mediterranean feel.

Ekiben

• 801 E. Fort Ave.

Ekiben’s soft-shell crab bun is the dish that started this search. Available only at the South Baltimore location, it stacks local Maryland soft-shell crab, jumbo lump crab meat, tangy Old Bay remoulade and cheddar cheese on a steamed bao bun, then dusts the whole thing with Old Bay. The bao adds a layer of softness to the crunchy crab, and the cheddar pushes the dish into full Maryland comfort-food territory. It is not a traditional soft-shell sandwich, but it still feels rooted in Baltimore with its crab, Old Bay, cheese and little bit of excess. After trying it, Moore immediately said, “Oh my gosh,” calling it “such a good bite.” If you are already an Ekiben fan, this is a seasonal reason to visit the Riverside shop before the bun disappears off the menu.