Autumn is here in Baltimore, and as the leaves and days continue to darken, so too do the spirits mixed into many of the city’s cocktails — although that’s far from the only way that local bars are showcasing seasonal flavors. From juices and shrubs made with starchy produce to spice-infused liqueurs and tinctures, the ingredients in this year’s lineup of fall cocktails are anything but boring. Here’s a guide to some of my favorites so far, many of which have just hit menus in the past few days.

Annabel Lee Tavern

  • 602 S. Clinton St.

If the Edgar Allan Poe memorabilia adorning the walls of Annabel Lee Tavern doesn’t get you in the mood for the season, this Canton mainstay’s newly released fall cocktail menu is sure to do the trick. Don’t miss the Goldbug: a hot, comforting concoction of spiced-rum-spiked apple cider with a showstopping, generous float of melted brown sugar butter. The drink goes down like liquid apple pie, while whiffs of sliced lemon and clove garnishes balance the sweeter flavors. As the weather begins to chill, this mug might become my new favorite way to warm up.

Mama Koko’s

  • 100 E. 23rd St.
The Ghost Ride from Mama Koko’s gets its fragrance from cardamom orgeat, lime and Angostura bitters.
The Ghost Ride from Mama Koko’s gets its fragrance from cardamom orgeat, lime and Angostura bitters. (Jane Godiner)

At 5 p.m. Wednesday through Saturday, the lights at Mama Koko’s dim, the candles are lit, and this Barclay cafe turns into a full-service restaurant and craft cocktail bar. It’s during evening service that you can order the Ghost Ride, featuring cognac and whiskey, cardamom orgeat, lime and Angostura bitters. Although the cocktail boasts a hefty 20.2% ABV according to the menu, it is a remarkably easy sipper, with cardamom and citrus flavors tasting perfumy rather than punchy. The best part? It comes clarified, making it just as translucent as a ghost. Points for adherence to theme.

Read more:

These Baltimore raw bar bites go beyond just oysters

The Dish: Why is it so hard to find lunch in this town?

Crab cake institution Pappas sells to financial technology firm

Dutch Courage

  • 2229 N. Charles St.
The Simmering Orchard from Dutch Courage is an ode to the firm, sweet and slightly starchy Fuyu persimmon.
The Simmering Orchard from Dutch Courage is an ode to the firm, sweet and slightly starchy Fuyu persimmon. (Jane Godiner)

Just a couple of footsteps away from Mama Koko’s, Dutch Courage is slinging drinks from its just-dropped fall cocktail menu. The Simmering Orchard is a love letter to the Fuyu persimmon, a Japanese cultivar of the seasonal fruit that is particularly firm in texture with a mild, sweet flavor. A shrub made with persimmon and honey meets dry gin, calvados liqueur, lemon and tiki bitters for a drink that remains breezy, even with all of its complexities. Pro tip: alternate sips of this cocktail with small nibbles of its pickled persimmon garnish.

Advertise with us

Southpaw

  • 529 S. Bond St.
The light-but-warming Death Rattle from Southpaw is back by popular demand.
The light-but-warming Death Rattle from Southpaw is back by popular demand. (Jane Godiner)

Southpaw’s critically acclaimed proprietor Doug Atwell tells me that, last year, guests begged to keep one particular seasonal cocktail on the menu long after the fall had ended: the Death Rattle. This year, it’s back with a vengeance, and we’re all better for it. The warming powers of mezcal and Szechuan amaro will hit you first, and fruity flavors of peach and lemon make for a lighter finish. This is the ideal order for bar-goers who are easing their way into the season, or for those looking for a vestige of brightness, and some serious spirit strength, as the days get darker.

Sugarvale

  • 4 W. Madison St.
The Jackie-O from Sugarvale takes an espresso martini to the next level with brown-butter-washed bourbon and pecan-pie orgeat.
The Jackie-O from Sugarvale takes an espresso martini to the next level with brown-butter-washed bourbon and pecan-pie orgeat. (Jane Godiner)

In Mount Vernon, Sugarvale is putting an autumnal twist on the ever-popular espresso martini. The Jackie-O starts with luxurious brown-butter-washed bourbon, which is then shaken with cold brew, cocoa-coffee liqueur, pecan pie orgeat and Angostura bitters. Buttery bourbon and strong coffee flavors are harmonious — who would have guessed? — and an already-nutty orgeat is fortified by the pecan. Espresso cocktails can fall anywhere on a vast spectrum of sweetness, and it’s hard to know if you’ll wind up with something that drinks like a boozy black coffee or a spiked frappuccino. This one leans on the bitter side, with just enough sweetness to get you reaching for another sip.

The Wurst

  • 18 E. Cross St.
The Fall Blossom from The Wurst is surprisingly strong and complex for a gin drink with a short ingredient list.
The Fall Blossom from The Wurst is surprisingly strong and complex for a gin drink with a short ingredient list. (Jane Godiner)

Head to the upper level of Crossbar Der Biergarten and slide open the door of what appears to be a walk-in fridge to find low-lit speakeasy The Wurst. New to its menu this season is the Fall Blossom, which, despite its robust, chest-burning flavor, is based in gin. Spiced simple syrup is undoubtedly a contributor to its toasty flavors, as are sweet vermouth and a dash of bitters. For those who gravitate toward simple, well-executed classic cocktails over those with more bells and whistles, this might be your gateway into falltime revelry.

The Bluebird Cocktail Room

  • 3602 Hickory Ave.
The Squash Sidecar from Bluebird Cocktail Room is zingy and sweet from squash, lemon, and ginger.
The Squash Sidecar from Bluebird Cocktail Room is zingy and sweet from squash, lemon and ginger. (Jane Godiner)

At this swanky upper-level cocktail bar in Hampden, the Squash Sidecar reminds us that fall comforts don’t always have to feel familiar. This juicy drink is fashioned with apple brandy and local squash, sweetened with honey, and punched up with lemon and ginger. The result is undoubtedly a seasonal cocktail, but one with a tartness and vegetal quality that keeps it far lighter on the palate than many of the others on this list. It’s not the drink you should order to warm yourself up on a windy day, but if you’re hoping to experience seasonal ingredients at their finest, look no further.

Pink Flamingo

  • 300 W. 30th St.
The Miss Kalabaza from Pink Flamingo is a spirited take on a pumpkin-spice beverage.
The Miss Kalabaza from Pink Flamingo is a spirited take on a pumpkin-spice beverage. (Jane Godiner)

There is no shortage of pumpkin spiced coffee and tea drinks available to enjoy across Baltimore this season, but Remington’s Pink Flamingo is literally shaking things up with a spirited equivalent. The bourbon-based Miss Kalabaza, which includes spiced pumpkin on its long ingredient list, is made fragrant with chicory liqueur, allspice dram, ginger bitters and orange peel. Its flavor is strikingly similar to that of a pumpkin pie spice mix, but, unlike your standard autumnal cafe drink, it does not need to be served hot. The over-ice cocktail has more than enough bourbon to keep you cozy.

Jane Godiner is an award-winning food writer whose work has appeared in The Baltimore Sun, The Maryland Daily Record, Washingtonian, Arlington Magazine, The Post and Courier, TASTE and Chowhound.