New owners rebrand Pikesville deli The Essen Room as Mikey & Mel’s

For nearly a decade, The Essen Room in Pikesville was one of Baltimore County’s few remaining delis offering authentic Jewish fare, from pastrami on rye and corned beef to matzo ball soup. Its slogan — “where size does matter” — nodded to its famously tall, overstuffed sandwiches.

Now, the restaurant is entering a new era after being sold about two weeks ago to brothers and restaurateurs Aaron and Harley Magden, who plan to turn the space into the third outpost of their small Jewish deli chain, Mikey & Mel’s. It joins two other locations in southern Howard County’s Fulton and downtown Washington, D.C.

In addition to a new name, the Pikesville deli will expand into a vacant 900-square-foot space next door to allow for more sit-down dining, Aaron Magden said in a phone call.

The brothers also plan to extend service hours to include Mondays and breakfast, make renovations and offer delivery through third-party platforms. The deli may offer carryout and delivery only while the changes are underway.

Other traditions, including the overloaded sandwiches, will remain, Aaron Magden said. Mikey & Mel’s also will retain The Essen Room’s food purveyors, cooks and staff.

“We’re not changing a good thing,” Magden said. “If you just walked in as a normal patron, the only thing different you’d see is a receipt that says ‘Mikey & Mel’s.’”

Ken Bernstein, a senior vice president at David S. Brown Enterprises, which owns the three-story retail and office building on Hooks Lane where the restaurant is located, confirmed the sale.

The restaurant’s previous owner, Lou Ellison, did not respond to multiple calls requesting comment. Ellison and Randallstown native Neil Parish opened The Essen Room in 2017.

The Magden brothers grew up in Cleveland. They moved to Howard County 20 years ago and started Window Nation, which grew into one of the nation’s largest window replacement companies.

Since selling that business to private equity, the Magdens have pursued other ventures, including a chain of exotic car dealerships known as Marshall Goldman, where they spend most of their time.

One of the brothers’ latest passion projects is Mikey & Mel’s, an homage to their late father and grandfather, who introduced them to Jewish delis during their childhood in the Midwest.

Aaron Magden said the idea for the Howard County location, which opened about five years ago, came in part from visiting The Essen Room and realizing his community lacked a similar deli. Ellison helped consult on the project.

Mikey & Mel’s D.C. location opened in 2024. The Pikesville expansion came after Ellison contacted the Magdens to say he was retiring and wanted to sell the business, Aaron Magden said. He did not disclose the terms of the sale.

Magden said the brothers are trying to preserve a fading breed. In Pikesville, a number of delis, including Suburban House, Miller’s and Edmart Deli, have shuttered in recent years. Lenny’s Deli in nearby Owings Mills is still operating after 40 years in business.

“A lot of the kids have never even experienced corned beef or pastrami before,” Magden said. “Being Jewish and part of this culture, I think it’s important to keep this type of food alive and well.”