A staircase lights up as you walk in. A mirrored bar glows. A whole fish arrives, still sizzling, over an open flame.

Baltimore’s Asian restaurant scene is having a moment.

Asian dining in Baltimore is moving up (up up) all at once, and I’ve got the receipts to prove it from some of the area’s newest options. Consider trying these Korean and Sichuan offerings, sushi counters, Chinese American comfort food spots and cross-cultural cafés.

Motte

1 N. Haven St., Building E

Motte, tucked into Highlandtown, was one of the first places that made me stop mid-bite and think, “Oh, things are changing.” The space alone sets the tone. Industrial chic, soaring ceilings and a dramatic chandelier deliver glamour to what was once a fireplace mantel factory. The food is equally impressive: Bulgogi (grilled, thinly sliced marinated beef) that hits every sweet-savory note. A hot-and-sweet shrimp flatbread that disappears almost as soon as it arrives at the table. A K-style small whole chicken (think crispy and double fried) with pickled radish that comes fresh from the fryer — and may have burned my fingers because I was too impatient to let it cool.

Lao Sze Chuan

3224 St. Paul St.

If I had to name a favorite new addition, Lao Sze Chuan in Charles Village would be it. This is a restaurant that understands flavor and has zero fear of spice. The dim sum is excellent, especially the pork and shrimp siu mai (steamed dumplings). But the real showstopper is the Sichuan roasted European sea bass, delivered whole over an open flame and gently cooked in an aromatic broth. Lotus root, tofu, mushrooms, potato slices, cauliflower and glass noodles soak up every bit of its heat and depth. This place is perfect for bold flavors that linger in your thoughts long after the meal ends. Even their carryout is on point, complete with secure, no-spill packaging that makes delivery just as enjoyable.

Angus B-Fire Korean BBQ

2324 Boston St.

I don’t usually enjoy cooking my own food when I go out. Angus B-Fire is the exception, where the experience starts before you even sit down. The stairs light up when you walk in, setting the mood. The space is sleek and modern, glowing with neon lights, including an astronaut who begs for a photo. A large cherry blossom tree anchors the room and has become the go-to selfie spot. The food holds its own. With more than 30 tables, there is room to settle in and grill at your own pace. High-quality American wagyu and Angus beef are the stars, with butter salmon, garlic shrimp, and spicy pork belly rounding out the menu. The daily happy hour from 5 to 7 p.m. seals the deal. Think $6 wine and sake, $7 yuzu margaritas, and $6 wings and calamari. It’s social, indulgent and exactly what you expect from Korean BBQ.

Bao Di

3215 Eastern Ave.

Bao Di fits right into Highlandtown. It’s welcoming, approachable and feels like it belongs in the neighborhood. Large front windows let you see the scene inside as you walk by, which makes it very hard not to stop in. The menu focuses on Chinese-American favorites. General Tso’s chicken, kung pao chicken, lo mein, and a solid mix of stir-fries and vegetarian options all feel familiar in the way you want them to be. The stir-fried green beans are a standout. Crisp, salty, savory — reached for until the plate is empty. It’s an easy choice before a show at the Creative Alliance, but it works just as well for a low-key weeknight dinner when you want something comforting and reliable. Even the name fits. 宝地 (Bao Di) translates to “treasured land” or “auspicious place,” which feels right for a neighborhood spot meant to be enjoyed often.

À Demain Cafe

830 W. 36th St.

At À Demain Cafe on the Avenue in Hampden, croissants are pressed into waffle irons until they’re crisp at the edges and buttery in the middle, then topped generously, yet artfully. One minute it’s Oreo cream and strawberries, the next it’s a full lox Benedict situation with whipped cream cheese, smoked salmon, pickled onions, capers, dill, a poached egg and Hollandaise. The French-Korean influence shows up most clearly in the bulgogi melt, where marinated beef, caramelized kimchi jam, melted Swiss and mozzarella and horseradish mayo blend in a rich, savory and deeply comforting way. I ordered with the intention of trying a few things and ended up turning the table into a full brunch board for guests, which felt less like over-ordering and more like understanding the assignment. Of note: While the cafe has a few tables outside, it’s likely you’ll need to take your meal to go and enjoy it elsewhere.

Hana

1103 W. 36th St.

Baltimore has been yearning for a great new sushi restaurant, and Hana feels like the answer. Located in Hampden in the former Souvlaki Greek Cuisine space, it’s far more spacious than it looks from the outside and has a layout that works for date nights, group dinners or a casual seat at the bar. The mirrored, backlit bar is beautiful, turning it into the kind of place that invites you to start with a drink and stay awhile. This concept, from the team behind Yama Sushi in Ellicott City, has a menu that spans rolls, ramen and shareable small plates. We tried tuna tacos, smashed cucumbers, a double toro roll and the Edgar Allan Roe roll (layered with sweet shrimp, burdock root, cucumber, avocado, seaweed salad, pickled peppers, wasabi, yuzu roe, tomatillo yuzu and chili oil). However, my favorite bite was the salmon carpaccio, thinly sliced and dressed with seasonal yuzu.

Nine Tailed Fox

3 Village Square

Nine Tailed Fox grabs you the moment you walk in the door. Located in the Village of Cross Keys, the space is grand and transportive, with high ceilings, dramatic lighting, and design details that make dinner feel like an occasion. (Think intimate tables for two carved into the wall.) The menu ranges from traditional to modern Chinese dishes, but if I’m being honest, I could, and have, happily ordered just the dim sum and called it a night. The selection is extensive and expertly executed. Delicate soup dumplings, shumai (dumplings), pot stickers and a crispy shrimp spring roll that is (almost) too pretty to eat. There’s even a dessert dumpling, a chocolate ganache xiaolongbao with salted cream, that is playful and unexpected. If you’re in the mood to go big, the black truffle roasted duck arrives with table-side shaved truffle.

Coming Soon: Lucky Danger

I am very excited about Lucky Danger coming to Baltimore. The kind of excited where you open the menu and immediately want to order one of everything, before remembering that even I have my limits. Lucky Danger describes itself as “American Chinese by a Chinese American,” and that point of view comes through clearly. What started as a pandemic pop-up in 2020 grew into a permanent takeout spot in Arlington, Virginia, a stall at Nationals Park and a full-service flagship in D.C.’s Penn Quarter and Chinatown area. Now it’s coming to Baltimore, with plans to open near Johns Hopkins University. On my visit to the D.C. location near Capital One Arena, choosing what to order was the most challenging part of the meal. Maryland blue crab lo mein. Short rib and bone marrow dumplings. Brown butter and miso banana bread pudding. I wanted it all, and had to talk myself down.

This article has been updated to correct the neighborhood where Bao Di is located.