Is there a word for something that looks and even sounds disgusting, but actually tastes delicious? The sensory dissonance that happens when you go from wanting to vomit to wanting to eat another bite instead?
If so, I would use it to describe the barbecue sundae at M&T Bank Stadium. The dish, a warm layer cake of macaroni, meat, beans and slaw, is one of a handful of new options fans can expect to find at The Bank during the Ravens’ home opener. The team, together with Levy Restaurants, which manages concessions at the stadium, offered The Banner an exclusive preview of new dishes this week.
But it’s not just the menu that’s different this year. A three-year renovation of the Russell Street stadium has added new venues like a gated patio called The Talon that opens to fans three hours before kickoff. Just inside, check out Frank’s RedHot Backstage, a massive new sports bar and restaurant where you can order Sicilian-style pizzas for $38. While I appreciated the thick and not-greasy crust of Buffalo chicken pizza I tried, it was overpowered by the salty blue cheese. I’d go with a different topping, or just get the wings, which were excellent.
Frank’s RedHot sauce might have originated in Cincinnati, but the brand is today owned by Hunt Valley’s McCormick & Co., which provides all the condiments and spices used at the stadium. That includes the Old Bay Blackbird Seasoning, an herby, lemony twist on Baltimore’s favorite flavor made in partnership with the Ravens. And yes, it really does taste different from original Old Bay. Find it all over the tenders and other chicken dishes sold at the stadium.
And that’s Maryland chicken you’ll be eating, by the way. Adam Lizak, executive chef with Levy Restaurants at M&T Bank Stadium, says the stadium has switched poultry purveyors and is now working with the Eastern Shore’s own Perdue Farms.
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Also new this year is Little Caesars, which also happens to be the official pizza sponsor of the NFL. Pizza! Pizza! If you prefer to skip the national chains, Lizak says local shop Factoria Maria Pupuseria will offer made-to-order quesadillas, nachos and of course pupusas. But those hoping to see the return of more local eateries like Attman’s Delicatessen, which was kicked out of the Ravens’ stadium two years ago, will need to keep waiting. While Levy has worked with local brands at Oriole Park at Camden Yards, where it also runs the food program, Chicago-based Levy runs most The Bank’s stalls itself.
Price is the first thing on pretty much everyone’s mind lately, especially for families already paying a fortune to attend the game. For them, the stadium is continuing its “Flock Friendly” options, which include surprisingly decent hot dogs — sourced from Bovine & Swine in Wyoming — for just $3.49. Perfectly fine soft pretzels are $1.99, as are boxes of popcorn.
Of course, foodies can’t live on cheap hot dogs alone. Enter that $18.99 barbecue sundae, a magnificent and horrifying creation that Lizak says was inspired by his Midwestern upbringing and the treats one might find at a state fair. Lizak’s version, available at Poe’s Pit stands around the stadium, is made with brisket, baked beans and macaroni. During the tasting, it was served in a parfait glass. At first glance, it looks like ice cream. And then you realize: that’s coleslaw ... with a sliced cherry tomato on top.
Elsewhere at the stadium, you can find the Dueling Dog, a footlong Nathan’s frankfurter topped half with pit beef, half with crab dip. I appreciated the concept of loading a dog with pit beef. Genius, truly. The execution here could have used some work, though — the pit beef was about as dry as you’d expect at a stadium, the horseradish was watery, and even the sausage itself was mid. The crab dip end, well-seasoned with Old Bay thanks to McCormick, seemed to be lacking in any detectable chunks of crab meat, but still tasted pretty good. Is it worth the $24.99 you’ll pay at Russell Street Links stands? That depends on who’s paying.
Finally, there’s the $18.99 Evermore Scorcher from Cask and Ember, a hamburger that is not actually that spicy but is very silly. The bun is topped not with sesame seeds but crushed-up Flamin’ Hot Cheetos and then slathered in Calabrian chili aioli, because we’re not monsters. The burger itself was unremarkable, a fact that no amount of cheese or sliced jalapeños could conceal.
My final recommendation: Go with the barbecue sundae, aka the Maryland Sundae. It looks out of control, and the ASMR of your fork diving into the squishy layers might make you want to throw up. But one bite and you’ll be a believer.




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