Baltimore’s beloved Food Market brings Maryland comfort food to Montgomery County

The dozens of salt and pepper shakers, sets of pigs, beer steins, gingerbread houses and potatoes, among other adorable variations, weren’t supposed to be on the tables at The Food Market’s new Bethesda location.

But now the owner wants the Baltimore and Columbia locations to follow suit.

It was a happy accident. In the months before the opening of The Food Market, an upscale casual comfort food restaurant, on June 29, the original salt and pepper shakers that chef and owner Chad Gauss received were laughably tiny. Not at all the vision Gauss had for the third iteration of his longtime Baltimore-favorite restaurant.

“I needed to add style to the business,” Gauss said. “And I instantly thought of my mother, who’s an avid thrifter. I said, ‘I need 100 salt and pepper shakers in two months.’”

Gauss’s mother, Peggy Miller-Gauss — nicknamed Peki — found them all within a week.

“I don’t even care if people steal them. They can steal them. I’ll replace them,” he joked. (Although the shakers are so cute you might feel tempted to pocket a Christmas reindeer or cat duo, please don’t.)

Tabletop seasoning aside, it’s tough to choose from the sprawling menu, which offers nearly 50 dinner options alone — and that’s without the complimentary truffle popcorn with basil parmesan cheese that kicks off dinner service.

The comfort food includes Maryland classics such as crab cakes and a cream of crab soup, one of the first recipes Gauss developed more than two decades ago (which have inspired copycats around Baltimore) and Amish-style soft pretzels with an overflowing vessel of beer cheese. In the mood for something more elevated? Go for the scallops with a refreshing snap pea risotto.

The Food Market team has previously asked social media followers what they consider the restaurant’s signature dish.

“I think we counted, like, 68 different answers,” Gauss said. “We like to say, ‘If you like it somewhere else, you’ll love it here.’”

Don’t forget about dessert, featuring, among others, a decadent Heath Bar Crunch bread pudding and a childhood classic “dirt cup” with chocolate mousse, Oreo crumble and gummy worms for garnish.

The “try ’em all” option gets you a large silver platter with five of the restaurant’s most popular desserts and the envy of your fellow patrons.

This weekend marks the new location’s first brunch service. To incentivize new customers, The Food Market is offering free food — but drinks at full price and the regular service fees — to the first 50 customers Saturday and first 25 Sunday. Doors open at 9 a.m., and brunch is served until 2:45 p.m.

The brunch menu offers eggs over easy atop a bacon risotto, crab cake Benedict and hot honey crispy chicken sandwiches. And, in lieu of the dinnertime truffle popcorn, brunch begins with complimentary powdered sugar cake donuts.

As The Food Market welcomes new customers to its first Montgomery County location, the team is keeping its eyes on possible expansions to Frederick, Annapolis and other states. But for now it is focused on slow growth, setting roots in Bethesda and establishing itself as a neighborhood restaurant where locals become regulars.

“We really, really look forward to getting to know the community,” Gauss said. “That’s what we’re most excited about. … We’re in the business of making people happy.”