When one brewery closes, another opens (and the first one relocates)

A pulled pork sandwich in Pigtown? You’ll be able to eat one at Mystique Barrel Brewing and Lager House, which is scheduled to open Friday at 912 Washington Blvd. if all goes well at a Thursday liquor board hearing.

After a longer-than-expected opening process, owner Tom Pagano said he’s excited to finally welcome Pigtown residents in for a brew — or maybe a hard seltzer, if that’s their preference. “We want to be inclusive and create that really great experience,” even for those who might not drink beer, Pagano said.

Inside Mystique, a large mural on the wall painted by street artist Nether features a Raven perched on a barrel; Pagano made tables himself out of reclaimed wood from Second Chance.

Pagano has added a kitchen to the space, formerly home to Suspended Brewing Company, and plans to start food service by mid-November. In addition to barbecue, guests will eventually be able order pierogies and a mezze platter to go with their beers, which include a pre-Prohibition lager derived from corn.

Pagano, who previously worked at Mobtown Brewing Company and then Checkerspot, is friends with Suspended co-owner Josey Schwartz, and had been discussing the possibility of opening his own brewery “for years and years,” Scwhartz said. “I applaud his patience. He waited for the right moment and the right opportunity.”

The new brewery comes amid other changes in Pigtown. Nearby, Groundwork Kitchen is temporarily shuttered, while Zeke’s Coffee, Charm City Books and Mobtown Ballroom have all closed their doors in the neighborhood. Some new businesses have opened, including sports bar Flock, The Stoop Coffeehouse in the old Zeke’s as well as Moonlight Center of Art, an art collective and gallery in the former Charm City Books.

Times are tough in the beer industry, with craft brewers facing dual pressures from a saturated marketplace and declining rates of drinking. When Suspended closed down its Pigtown taproom, the company wrote in an Instagram post that the company “barely made it through the pandemic.” But Schwartz said this week he wanted to inspire others through his small business, which he now plans to relaunch in Hampden.

The future brewery, formerly a hair salon called Tricho Studio and located next door to Wicked Sisters, is currently in the demolition phase. Schwartz, who also works at Maryland’s Department of the Environment, aims to renovate it according to passive building principles that prioritize energy savings. “We’re going to get the energy use of the building down so much, we’re basically going to turn this old 19th-century building into a Yeti cooler,” he said.

The brewmaster is doing much of the renovation himself, albeit with some occasional help from his dad’s construction company. When complete, the brewery will include multiple small taprooms as well as a beer garden in the back.

Schwartz, who lives in the Hampden area, previously tried to launch Suspended at a site on the Avenue before neighbors complained about the plan. This time, though, he doesn’t anticipate any pushback. A hearing before Baltimore’s zoning board is scheduled for Nov. 19.

Correction: This story has been updated to correct Mystique Barrel Brewing and Lager House’s address and to add the new tenants to the former Zeke's and Charm City Books.