Fried chicken is dominating Columbia’s fast food scene

Baltimore might be known for its chicken boxes. But some Marylanders have dubbed Columbia “the Chicken Strip,” where nearly two dozen fried chicken joints compete for customers.

Pinpointing exactly when this chicken run began in the state’s second-largest community is difficult, but the diners don’t seem to be complaining. Some have joked about the inevitability that empty commercial space in Columbia will become home to yet another fried chicken shop.

I have long wondered how local gems like Kokee Kitchen and small but growing chains like Crimson Coward, Hangry Joe’s Hot Chicken and Rise Southern Biscuits & Righteous Chicken stand up to the usual suspects like KFC, Chick-fil-A, Popeyes, Raising Cane’s and Krispy Krunchy Chicken. (Let’s agree to leave the regional names like Hip Hop Fish & Chicken and Royal Farms out of this.)

On Tuesday, I loosened the drawstring on my pants and set out with Banner photographer Jessica Gallagher for a self-guided tour of Columbia’s fried chicken offerings.

Crimson Coward

This Nashville hot chicken chain, founded in California in 2019, has since branched out to four other states. The chain bills itself as a destination for hot chicken enthusiasts, but so far, its footprint on the East Coast is limited to Virginia and Maryland.

The location on Columbia’s Deepage Drive has a drive-thru, but we opted to order at the counter since the lunch rush had not yet picked up. Crimson advertises its chicken as hormone- and antibiotic-free and halal.

We ordered the chicken and waffles, which came with a little cup of Smucker’s breakfast syrup, and the specialty JOEY-EAT-Fries, which are loaded with chicken, house-made slaw, pickles, cheese and “crimson sauce.” A staffer told me the sauce is prepared fresh on site.

I gravitated toward the chicken and waffles, which were tasty and satisfying. The specialty fries were a little drippy by the time we made it back to Jessica’s car, but the sturdy takeout box kept the mess under control.

Kokee Kitchen

Of all the chicken joints in all the strip malls in all of Columbia, this one is definitely worth your time.

I was somewhat familiar with the Kokee tea brand, but this particular establishment on Centre Park Drive offers some stellar fried chicken alongside its wide selection of boba teas, individually wrapped macarons and Hello Kitty merch.

We ordered the Chicken Butt tenders, lemon pepper wings, and a Dragon & Rose tea with honey boba for good measure. The crispy, spiced batter was the star of the show. However, we both agreed the wings were equally stellar and had just the right amount of zest. My suspicion that the rose tea might taste too floral was unfounded, and it paired well with the lunch order.

We concluded that there are ample reasons this Korean chicken counter has a strong following in Howard County.

Hangry Joe’s Hot Chicken & Wings

This chain isn’t exactly small; it has 18 locations in Maryland alone, according to its corporate website. However, I’d never eaten at a Hangry Joe’s before and was intrigued that its menu offered sides like fried okra and funnel cake sticks.

The chicken tenders were as crispy as they were spicy. I liked the punch of flavor and found the meat to be reasonably tender, but Jessica noted that the seasoning was just a tad overwhelming. Thankfully, the franchise allows customers to adjust the seasoning and spice level, from no heat all the way to “Angry Hot,” which apparently requires a waiver and is nonrefundable.

The fried okra didn’t knock our socks off, but I liked that it technically counted as a vegetable to break up our deep-fried binge. The funnel fries came with a dusting of powdered sugar and a choice of chocolate or strawberry dipping sauce. I chose strawberry and later wished I’d gone with the chocolate.

Rise Southern Biscuits & Righteous Chicken

Rise originated in Durham, North Carolina, and has since expanded to seven other states, mostly in the Southeast. I confess that it was their seasonal pumpkin spice beignets, not the biscuits they are known for, that lured us to the Columbia location on McGaw Road.

No regrets, though, because the chicken tenders were juicy and came with a particularly tasty barbecue sauce. The biscuit was big and fluffy, just as advertised.

We nearly ordered the fried green tomato sandwich with pimento cheese, but it seemed out of place for a chicken tour of Columbia. That’s OK, I reasoned. It’s nice to leave something to try for next time.